Boneyard Beach on Bull Island features three miles of white sands and the ghosts of trees past.
Photo by Jennifer Heisler, Silver Crescent Consulting
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The ferry to Bull Island, run by Coastal Expeditions, has just left the dock and already I am enthralled. As the mainland recedes off our stern the marsh grasses surround us, gently swaying the soft breeze. Ahead the surface of the water is broken and a dolphin takes a breath of air before submerging again. It won’t be the last dolphin we’ll see today.
After about half an hour of winding through the creeks we reach our destination, Bull Island, part of Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge, one of only two Class 1 Wilderness Areas on the East Coast. Just off the coast of Charleston, SC on Bull Island you will find 16 miles of hiking trails, over seven miles of undeveloped beaches, and 66,000 acres of the most pristine air and water in the United States.
The wildlife that inhabits the island proves just how incredible an environment it is. Endangered Loggerhead Sea Turtles choose to nest on Bull Island. Over 270 species of migratory and resident birds have been identified within Cape Romain and Bull Island. Bald eagles soar overhead. Snowy egrets and great blue herons wade through the marsh. Ducks of all sizes and colors are found floating in flocks often numbering in the thousands. And you can’t forget the alligators. It is estimated that on Bull Island alone, there are more alligators per square foot than anywhere else outside of the Everglades.
When you arrive on the island you’ll be turned loose to explore on your own. The best way to see the island is on bicycles, which are allowed on the Bull Island Ferry. There are restrooms on the island, but you need to bring everything else with you—drinks, snacks, cameras, batteries, sunscreen, and bug spray. Wear comfortable walking shoes and dress for the weather.
Ferry times vary depending on the time of year, with departures from the end of the pier at Garris Landing off U.S. Highway 17 in Awendaw, SC at 9:00 am and 12:30 pm March 1–November 30. Return passages leave the island at noon and 4:00 pm. During the winter the ferry runs on Saturdays, departing at 10:00 am and leaving the island at 3:00 pm. Coastal Expeditions only accepts cash or check for the fares, which are $30 for adults and $15 for children 12 and under. Get there about 30 minutes early to make sure you don’t miss the boat.
Remember that Bull Island is to be treasured, not trashed. And in the words of others who have gone before me, “Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time.”
Jennifer Heisler may not be from the Lowcountry, but it doesn't mean she loves it… more
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